Installing Non Mortise Hinge
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Save time and effort with these easy-to-install Non-Mortise Hinges! Simply mount one side of the flat-tip hinge to your cabinet edge and the other to the back of the door or lid – no need to cut mortises! For use on cabinet doors, interior shutters, drop-leaf desks and in many more hinge. Product Overview. The Everbilt 3 in. Non-Mortise Hinges (2-Pack) features a five knuckle full mortise design. The removable pin provides easier installation or removal of door. Easy to install. The Everbilt 3 in. Non-Mortise Hinges (2-Pack) features a five knuckle full mortise design. The removable pin provides easier installation.
The hinges are exactly what I needed and worked well for my application. When I reinstall the hinges after painting I'm going to need to replace all the screws since the heads on a large percentage of them stripped out on the initial installation. A note on the service I received in the Portland, Maine store: the gentleman who assisted me was great, turns out the size hinges I needed was being pulled from their retail outlets and going to catalog sales only. He had to dig through a couple of large tote bins filled with a couple of hundred assorted hinges and managed to find enough to fill my requirements.
It would have been a lot quicker and less effort on his part to just refer me to the catalog. Another plus was that once we had the pile of the correct size hinges I needed, they were on sale for 60% off and saved me about $30.
Vs retail price in the catalog. Very satisfied store customer. I used these hinges on an entertainment center with three inset glass doors. This is my first experience building and installing doors. Two of the doors would not close completely until I removed the set screw in the edge of the door.
One of the hinges was bent when it arrived and had to be worked on my anvil to get it flat. One door still does not close perfectly. May be my construction but I feel the bad hinge may be the problem. I guess I should have returned the bad hinge. The wrap around section of the hinge for the door appeared to be less than 90 degrees which could have caused the problem with the door not closing. Quality control seemed to be lacking.
BEST ANSWER: This type of hinge is designed for use with Typical 3/4' Face frames -- also can be used for 1/2' doors in smaller application. BEST ANSWER: This type of hinge is designed for use with Typical 3/4' Face frames -- also can be used for 1/2' doors in smaller application.
Background: we have been restoring (not renovating) our 1929 kitchen for 2 years now. We are finally, FINALLY almost ready to paint the cabinets (after 2 weeks of prep work--and I'm only painting 1/2 of the kitchen right now). Last year I attempted to restore the original hinges. They were coated in multiple layers of paint, and turned out to be a poor quality, plated steel, non mortise hinge. The plating came off with the paint. They were rusty under the paint. And lots of ball finials were broken off.
Soooo, I gave up, and reluctantly ordered about 16 pairs of non mortise hinges from Horton Brasses. We are finally trying to install them. What a NIGHTMARE! I can't understand why non mortise hinges are advertised as easy to install. The main problem: the new hinges are much narrower (front to back) than my old hinges.
In order for the inset cabinet door to close all the way, the hinge has to jut out about 1/8 (maybe a teeny bit less). This is how all the old hinges were done--jutting out a bit.
But the new hinges are so narrow, they cannot jut out. If they do, the screw holes would be ridiculously close to the edge of the door and also the face frame. I asked a very nice man at Horton Brasses about this, and he said that usually doors with these types of hinges are back bevelled. He said he hadn't heard of jutting them out, but, come to think of it, that would work too.
If the hinges are wide enough. I wish it had stated something about back bevelling on the website. Do most DIYers who are doing their own hinges actually have back bevelled doors?
I've never even seen a back bevelled door before. Ok, my choices, now that I've spent all this money on all these hinges: 1. Install the hinge snug, with no jutting out. If we do this, the doors do not close all the way on their own. They boing open. However, we have cabinet latches that will hold the doors shut. I guess this adds stress to the hinge, but is that a problem?